Neuspeed Exhaust Install - Audi A4, 1.8T

Prior Experience: None
Cost: Cost of Exhuast
Time: 2 hours....or 3 days depending

Discuss this modernistic - Hither

I was able to pick upward a used Neuspeed exhaust for 400 bucks, so I decided to install it myself to go along the costs low. Unfortunately I do not take access to a elevator, then I had to do this in the parking lot on jackstands and ramps. I can tell you this was a nightmare. Although it is possible to do on jackstands, I would suggest getting admission to a lift, I know that if I had this guide when I did the install, I would have saved a lot of time but I still recommend a lift.. I enquire that you lot READ THIS WHOLE Thing before you even recollect of starting.

Before

After

SUPPLIES -The supplies will change depending on whether you have a new or used exhaust. If y'all buy information technology new, yous volition (hopefully) get everything you lot need. Since I bought mine used, I had to go get the things that werent included - exhaust gaskets, bolts, etc. Although these things seem pocket-sized, they really add up to quite a bit. The gaskets are not every bit inexpensive as you would look. I picked them up from the local Monroe Muffler along with the bolts needed, nuts and washers needed for the install. The items listed below are for the NS exhaust, and I am bold you can figure out what you need for your specific system. The film below is merely of the gaskets for your reference. NOTE - If you have a vi speed, the NS frazzle will require that you purchase a seperate exhuast hanger from the DEALER. I will refer to this piece as the Lollipop (pics after) connector. Information technology bolts the exhuast to the tranny, and is non nowadays on 6 speed cars. The 5 speeds already take this.

Material	Quantity	Price
Exhuast		$400-1000
Triangular Gasket	1	$10.47
Diamond Gasket	3	$x.47
Nuts and Bolts (M10)	6	?
Nuts and Bolts (M8)	3	?
Lead Equalizer or Equivalent	1	5.97

Notation: The unabridged install SHOULD accept nigh 2 hours. Still you must understand that mine took almost 3 days. I suffered from the typical "one last bolt" that was rusted/stripped which cost me an entire twenty-four hour period. In society to even attempt this install you lot have to sympathise that your exhaust (specially up by the turbo) gets extremely hot. The nuts/bolts are practically welded in identify. I tried every method in the book to become these things free, and the "i terminal bolt" would not budge. I ended upwards cutting information technology off, which I was initially reluctant to do. Since this problem is jump to happen to other people, I volition present this writeup in two sections. The beginning is just showing you how it COULD go...the minimum possible work. The second role will evidence you what I really did. Starting time nosotros should go a list of tools out there though. You volition honestly demand all of these, so if you dont have them, don't try.

12 mm wrench	1/two inch socket wrench
17 mm wrench	12 inch long extension (five inches)
1/2 in socket	1/2 inch short extension (2 inches)
3/8 wrench swivel extension	1/2 wrench swivel extension
iii/8 inch long extension (5 inches)	17 mm socket
3/8 inch shor extension (ii inches)	Propane "Pencil" Torch
3/8 inch socket wrench	Mayhap a dremel tool

The very first affair you need to do is become the machine up on the jackstands and or ramps. I thought I would be able to just use ramps on the drivers side of the car (since I don't accept a good jack at school), but I soon found out that was not enough. Either manner I got a fix of Rhino ramps from Wal-Mart, and some inexpensive jackstands. I put the passenger side of the car up on ramps, and jacked up the front end of the drivers side. This was enough to get the job washed.

Audi A4 exhaust

After the machine is in the air, you have to start by removing the plastic cover that is on the bottom of your machine. At that place are v flat head screws that require a 1/2 turn each to remove this role. The plastic piece is really two pieces. For this job, you just need to remove the department closes to the rear of the car. I idea I took a picture of this, but I deceit observe it.

The outset matter we need to do is become an idea of what is going on under the car. The NS exhaust is a true cat back system, then nosotros need to outset by removing the stock exhaust from the cat. These are the bolts that i warned yous about. I Suggest that you accept your Atomic number 82 Blaster and hit all the nuts with information technology before yous get-go trying to take them on. They will exist very rusted and very difficult to get off.

You lot will be doing ii things: Commencement the bolt will be 'welded' to the frazzle flange itself (internally - where the threads are), and second the nut will be rusted/welded to the bolt.

In order to become the bolt/nut spinning within the exhaust flange, I would recommend using a torch to heat up the frazzle flange. For my organization, a 12mm wrench fit on the nut (although it was rusted) and a 1/2inch socket fit on the bolt. After i heated up the flange, I assembled a socket/extension setup to attain the nut and bolt, and started working them costless.

If you plan on doing this, become used to this view:

Also, pictured here is the CV boot cover. If you lot choose, yous can remove that to clear some room. I didnt accept the proper allen keys, and then I left mine on (probably a error now that I recall back)

If you are lucky, you will get all three basics/bolts off and exist on to the adjacent step. This was Not what happend with me, all the same I volition proceed with what to do next assuming y'all got them all out. In all honesty, you should wait an 60 minutes of wrenching and knuckle cutting before you become those bolts off, if not worse. If they practice not come up off in a reasonable amount of fourth dimension...please skip to the next section and the come up back to this part....this IS NOT the simply style.

After you get the exhaust off from the true cat, you lot have to disconnect the Lollipop connector from the Tranny as pictured here.

If yous have the exhaust off the cat, and the Lollipop connector disconnected, 95% of the work is done. Only piece of work your way back (around the heart of the car) and y'all will see ii rubber exhaust hangers. These things are 'supposed' to come off the steel hangers that are welded to the exhaust, notwithstanding I was then pissed by the fourth dimension I got to this point, that I could not bother with them. I used a torch to heat up the rubber, and cutting them off with a pair of snips. I decided to replace these with a set I bought at AutoZone for 10 bucks. Here are ii pics of the hangers

Audi A4 exhaust

Afterward you remove the exhuast from the mid-section hangers, there is non much left. When y'all go along towards the rear of the machine, you will run across the mufflers are hung past 2 brackets.

Use your ane/2 socket and and extension to remove these brackets. Later on this is washed, the whole frazzle will slide right out.

Here is a motion-picture show of the rear exhuast hangers.

Here is a side-by-side shot...NS on the left, OEM on the right

The next footstep would be to remove the Lollipop connecter, and the rear exhuast brackets from the OEM system and place them on the NS organization.

Here is a closeup of the Lollipop connector.

If y'all have made it this far, all thats left is the reverse install. For the NS sytem, y'all can starting time with the pipe at the true cat, and work your way dorsum. You should install all the pipes without tightening down any of the bolts. And then when they are all in place, and all the hangers are screwed in, go back and tighten the bolts. Make certain you have gaskets between each connection, and the bolts are tightened down well. If y'all decided to cut out the OEM mid-section rubber hangers like I did, you will have to go some hangers from AutoZone/PepBoys and install those. In gild to go them to slide on the metal hangers, spray them with WD-40 or another lubricant.

Like I said earlier, this description is the IDEAL case. It is non what I did, and probably wont be what yous need to practise. In that location are many means to do this install. In the next section yous will observe more detail.

NS Exhaust Install - Department 2

Similar I mentioned earlier, I had some serious issues with 1 bolt. For me, it was the 1 nut/bolt that connected the exhuast to the cat which can be seen from under the hood. Pictures of the culprit are here:


When I started having problems with this, I consulted the people on AZ (itsallstock, 400hpa4, Jeff, etc.). I got nearly 20 different suggestions, and I probably tried them all. I bought "Bolt Outs" from Sears, I tried Lead Blaster, WD-xl, Liquid Wrench, a torch, etc. Nothing would work on this. I wanted to stay away from destructive methods, but I had no pick. In my case the nut/bolt were spinning in the flange, merely the nut would not pause loose from the bolt. I purchased a nut-splitter from the local hardware store, and of course it did not fit. So my final pick was to cut information technology. In order to get a dremel up in the spot, I had to do a decent amount of work. I will evidence this all here. In guild to get more room from underneath, I had to back the entire exhaust system out. To do this, the Cat had to exist unbolted from the turbo. Before that could happen, I had to remove the stock airbox. When you are looking at information technology, information technology becomes obvious what you demand to do to disconnect information technology. And so below is ii pictures that should help. These pictures are taken after the air inlet connections have been removed. (The simple removal of this is shown in the 1000&N instal guide)


		After those connections are removed, at that place is one more that you volition need to disconnect. This is shown here.
With the stock airbox out, you lot should get a good look at the true cat/turbo connections as shown here:

		The cat and turbo are continued past three 17mm bolts. You will need to apply your one/2 wrench, extensions, 17 mm socket, hinge and 17 mm stubb wrench to get these all out

		Y'all will too have to unscrew the upsream O2 sensor located on the true cat.

		After all that is washed, it should await like this
When you have the cat unbolted, you tin can go back nether you auto and pull the cat from the turbo. It will slide back about six inches before you see the downstream O2 sensor become in the style. If y'all are able to cut the bolt at this indicate, then do it. If non, you tin disconnect the downstream O2 sensor in a similar fasion to get another inch or 2. After I cut the commodities, I merely resumed the steps earlier. Obviously this is a fleck more work, but information technology can exist done. NOTE: If your jackstands are high enough, and if you have removed the CV boot cover, it will be possible to slide the cat out of the motorcar from the bottom. This volition allow you to cut/unscrew the seized bolts away from you auto. Unfortunately I did not practise this.